i woke up early, checked the waves and wind. it was a weird day and i knew things were going to change really fast. so i jump on the truck and head to my east side secret spot. i knew it was going to be fun, and i knew nobody was going to be out. i was right on both!
surfing with the sun coming up is a perfect way to start the day. i’m in mellow mode just trying to flow with the ocean. i have a really good magic 5’7 Glenn Minami by TSSC that connects me to the wave the way i want. and when their is nobody around to get in my way, i know i’m in the right place.
for 25 years of my life, i always have been looking for the best place to surf on this island every single day. it’s days like this that are really tricky because of the winds, swell, and crowds. today i lucked out and surfed the best place i wanted to be at. right after i paddled in, the strong winds and heavy rain came. another perfect timing glassy morning session. can’t wait till tomorrow!
wanted to thank
