MY NISEI FAMILY…

310

good morning. tiny waves around the island. there is an east wind swell so if you know where to go, you will find some head high fun waves. have a wonderful day!!!

this is my grandpa. he’s 91 years old and has grown up in hawaii his whole life. i was driving by his house today between meetings so i decided to call him. he was just about to take his daily walk around the neighborhood so i asked him to wait for me. as we were walking around the block, i could remember walking around that same block when i was just a little kid. all the memories came back. racing my brothers, fighting for the tricycle, and getting yelled for running in the street without looking. those were the precious days.. anyway, we had a great talk, went home, talked more, and i jumped back in my car and went to my next meeting. we spent only 30 minutes together but it was the best 30 minutes spent….

this is my grandpa’s older sister. aunty hi-chan is 92 years old. born in hawaii and moved to japan before WWII. she has 7 children and is in top shape. i stopped by her house during typhoon 14. we drank a beer together and had a great talk. it’s kind of freaky to think that i didn’t even know my aunty until about 4 months ago. but now that i do, i’m really grateful to have met such an awesome person….

this is aunty hi-chan, her son ken-san, and daughter-in-law keiko-san. i wanted to thank you all for such a wonderful dinner and such a wonderful time. i’ll see you all again soon….

last, this is an amazing sunset. every time i see a sunset, i think about a lot of things. but the most is “how thankful i am to be living in this wonderful world.”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide