went for an early sunrise surf with Daisuke and Naoka early this morning. the waves were super clean and glassy. a nice west swell wrap making it for summer fun in town.
before the sun even came up, it was packed! i counted over 50 surfers from rockpiles to bowls. nobody wanted to miss this out of season treat.
Troy caught some good ones today. super stoked to be surfing a nice swell in town. it was so hot that it felt like summer.
i love photos like these. just captures the special moment.
SUP having fun.
Local.
got a nice photo of Naoka riding into the sunrise.
look how glassy the waves were. i had so much fun short boarding today.
so when you hear about a huge west swell closing out the north shore, check town because you just never know. the waves have been good for the past 3 days!
well, stayed up late last night working on traveling plans. figured it out! i’m jumping on an airplane tomorrow morning and going half way around the world. 25 hours of traveling and i’ll be at a place i’ve always wanted to go to. better put some clothes in my backpack! good night.
