good morning, 5 am and pitch dark again but i can feel the waves going off. everything is good, the tide, the winds, the swell. my goal for today is to get a nice long backdoor barrel. hope to see you out there….
wanted to say thank you all for sending me the cool comments on pipe. yes, i was a little nervous yesterday but tried not to think about it. if your scared, you get hurt. pipe was 10 out of 10 on being dangerous yesterday. it was so shallow and the aggressive 100 surfers didn’t help. after that, nothing is scary. i feel like winter is in full swing now and i’m so excited to get barreled! the contest should be on today, pipe/backdoor should be epic, what am i doing? i should get going. have a wonderful day!!!
everybody, the ocean is my office and seeing things like this with my bare eyes is what keeps me coming back to work. you just can’t beat my job. kalani chapman was using a 9’0 waimea gun surfboard and getting the craziest barrels ever. so much adrenaline was going through my body yesterday that i got super tired on the long drive home. happy, but tired. boy did my nap feel great!
