good morning, somebody sent me and asked how i have so much energy. gosh, i really don’t know. i don’t drink coffee, i don’t drink red bull. i guess it’s just a natural high i get from surfing, diving, and traveling. it’s in the air and i can’t slow down. i wish i had 48 hours in a day, and i wish i had 4 hands. i want to do everything!!! i have millions of things i have to do written down on a piece of paper i stare at everyday. i look at it, then look at the sun outside and decide my day. usually i choose the sun….
one of the reasons i hang at the beach and surf so much is because i love pushing my nephews. this is the first year their all charging pipe/backdoor and i love it. if they get barreled, i feel like i’m getting barreled too. it’s pretty dam exciting… photo gordinho
i don’t mind waiting and waiting for a wave when i’m surfing. i have no time limit and no place to go when the waves are good. if the waves are up, i’m surfing! so i’d sit out the back sometimes for hours just talking story with the boys. and when that time comes when i get a good wave, it means a lot to me. i’m smiling all the way home like i did yesterday… photo gordinho
i was super stoked to see another japanese surfer in hawaii!! hiroto arai showed up at off the wall yesterday. i was watching him paddle out through off the wall and seen 4 big sets break on his head. lucky he didn’t break his board. i wanted to paddle out and say “Welcome to Hawaii!” but i’ve seen hiroto surf and this kid surfs good! i can’t wait to see him on a big backdoor wave. ganbatte hiroto!!!
last, sorry masato-san. i made a mistake and said this was niigata. my bad. this is actually akita in japan. can you please call me when the waves get that good again? i’d love to surf there!!! mahalos…
