i had the coolest time this morning with Sho-san. a very smart guy, speaks great english, has a bright future ahead, and wants to become a surfer. we surfed 3 hours until his arms couldn’t paddle anymore. Hey Sho-san, you did great today! I know you will become a great surfer with a great future. Keep working hard and keep on surfing! hope you liked the poke bowl!
now that Kimura-san, Matsu, and Hikaru are in the mentawai’s now, it made me miss them, and there. it’s been 2 years and i think i’m going for sure this season. i miss the waves, the people, the culture, the barrels, the diving, and the sunsets! this was our last dream boat trip back in 2011.
and Hikaru has been sending me updates. when i saw this photo she sent me yesterday, i remember the place like it was my back yard. i might forget a lot of peoples names, but i never forget direction and magical places.
i shot Alyssa Wooten on that very same tire! this is a photo that never got used so i’ll use it now. great place, great model, and great tire!
oh, surfed again this afternoon for 3 hours with S-san. total of 6 hours in the ocean and i’m ready for a glass of whisky and some sleep. tomorrow is another busy day! goodnight.
