i had a great time with Kubota-san this morning. we paddled out to bowls and it was super sunny, super glassy, super clean, and super fun! not crowded at all so we caught so many good waves. on the way in, Kubota-san told me today was the best waves he ever surfed in his 7 year career. i was so happy to hear that! a great surfer, a great We Are One supporter, and a great person. thank you very much!
then i took this lovely couple to eat the biggest prime rib on the island. after this, i was full. and it’s 8pm now and i’m still full. haha.
one means long life, and the other means safe surfing. thank you Kubota-san for the good luck charms from japan. a long life surfing safe is a dream life!
i have this photo i took on my desktop. i love it because you can see this cool turtle close up, and way behind you can see a big kumu coming out of the hole. where is this? right in waikiki!
this was Hiyori-chan’s suitcase when she came to hawaii. when i first saw it, i was really emotionally happy. and now i really miss her. One Forever!
