good evening. i woke up and decided to take a break today after so much diving yesterday. my body needed to recover. but after i seen some 6′ A-FRAME sets at backdoor on my camera, i jumped in my car and went surfing. why? because it’s my job… another epic day of surf on the north shore. check out the action taken from my sister, tammy moniz….. good job sis….
i told my sister to shoot any japanese surfer you see on the north shore. why? because there’s not too many around these days and if they are, i’m sure the surf industry in japan want’s to know who’s charging, and who’s not…. this is mar ono charing pipe!!!
to me, shinpei is my top 5 favorite all time japanese surfers. why? because he’s humble, he’s cool, and he freakin charges. i’m still waiting for quiksilver to invite him to the eddie aikau. if he gets in, i’ll put all my money on him….
i had a meeting at the moniz house a few days ago. i told the kids to either charge when their out at pipe, or go back and surf kewalo’s. guess what they all chose? pipe of course!! luckily i kept garut’s old pipeline board under my house. seth came by to pick it up this morning and now he has no excuses. this is a 6’4 gun. if seth was on his 5’2, he wouldn’t be on this wave. and i’m glad he knows that now….
my sister always use to scold me for taking a photo of a girls ass. i always tell her it’s for my guy friends who want to see the beautiful bodies on the beach and in the water. so when i was going through her photos she took today, i couldn’t understand why she took this photo???? why???
