good morning. instead of me quitting one of my hobbies, i figured something out. get a camera for my sister and let her do my job on the beach, while i do my job in the water. i surf, she shoots… pretty easy yeah? now i should find somebody to do my computer work. that would be a dream. any volunteers??
check out the photos taken by tammy moniz…
there’s not too many people that surf longer than me out at backdoor. i’m out so long that i see guys coming out for their 2nd round. i wait, wait, and wait. this is my office and i don’t like to leave until the job is done. so after waiting 4 hours for this wave, i get it, i get barreled, and i come in. was it worth the wait? hey, i’d wait 10 hours for a wave like this. and i’m sure there are guys that will wait a lifetime for a wave like this…
i have an announcement to make” Hey kids out there, if you see Uncle Mike Ho paddle for a wave, don’t even paddle for it. Uncle Mike is a legend and if you disrespect him, you might not be able to surf the north shore again. and if you decide to paddle behind him like your surfing a contest and call him off a wave, forget it. Uncle mike is going!!!
isaiah is 16. he’s at the age where nobody’s going to give him a wave at pipe. he has to go get it himself. last week, he was sitting in the inside catching the scraps, yesterday, he was making his way to the lineup and catching sets. good boy isaiah….
