ok, surfed all day again. had a super fun morning session and evening session. just so happy to enjoy another perfect warm summer day in hawaii.
in our local language, we say “ho, that tree is loaded brah!” in english, that means “the mango tree over there has a lot of fruit.” or another local way would be “ho, choke mangos brah!” haha.
this tree near my house has hundreds of mangos that will make many people very happy. and i’m sure a lot of people will come by and steal some too.
my lunch today was spicy ahi, shoyu salmon, and hawaiian ahi poke on hot rice. so ono brah!
this morning was glassy. then it got windy onshore around 10am and all day long. then we already knew the winds were going to back off right at sunset time so that’s when we went surfing. Inaida-san told me “wow, it’s glassy!” now you can officially call him a surfer! glassy is where we want to be!
tomorrow i have another long day in the ocean. so happy and so sunburnt. i’ve been out of my house every early morning till late night that i forgot what it looks like. by the time i get home, i take a fast shower, do my fast blog, and go to sleep fast. then wake up at 4am. haha. people say i’m getting old, but i think i’m just too excited to start another day. better get going. sweet dreams!
