this 2010 year has to be the best north shore start as far as i can remember. ever since i got back to hawaii, the waves have been perfect. so many perfect backdoor/pipe/off-the-wall days that i can’t even count. if the winter season finishes today, i’m satisfied. i just keep telling myself that everything after this is just a bonus. it’s not even december yet and i can’t wait to see what’s coming….
i tell everybody to always ride a bigger board at backdoor so you can get the wave, and make the barrel. some of them tell me that kelly slater rides short boards out at big backdoor. i just have one thing to say to that. “hey, your not kelly slater.” i tell my nephews the same thing. when they ride big boards, they get big waves. today, they took rode their small boards and rode small waves at big backdoor. here’s seth on a 3′ wave when backdoor is 6′. i just don’t get it…. hey kids, next time you guys paddle out your short boards out on a big day at backdoor, i’m going to tell you go in and surf queen’s. you don’t belong out there because you will get hurt….
the day i see my nephews pulling into big barrels like this is the day i’ll stop bothering them. but until then, they are going to hear all the crap i have to say. they might not like it, but when the day comes when they get perfect 10’s out at pipe/backdoor, they will thank me.
remember i was telling you about mason rose? well, mason shot kelia today for an upcoming video. i stopped by as they were shooting in the mountains. from the ocean to the mountains is what hawaii is all about. wait till you see the video. stay tuned…
