the weather has been terrible here in hawaii. feels like i haven’t seen the sun in a while. the past few days were so dark and cold. i like it that way sometimes but now i’m looking forward to getting sunburnt again. hopefully things will get better tomorrow because i’ll be surfing all day!
i just checked my calendar and things are filling up so fast. i don’t see in the near future a chance to even leave hawaii. i was running around all day long doing so many things being so busy and when i got home, i started looking at my calendar for a surf trip, a real one! my last real surf trip was in the philippines and i had such a great time. just exploring new surf spots on local fisherman canoes was super interesting. small boat or big boat, i love them all!
my first boat trip was in indonesia in the early 1990’s going around the islands of lombok and sumbawa back in the days when nobody else did it. it was a super small sailboat with 8 of us. we pulled up to a spot called “Scar Reef” one afternoon and guess what? nobody was out! i still remember taking off on this wave and getting one of the barrels of my life! nowadays, i heard there are surf camps, luxury houses, hotels, and buildings all over the once beautiful white sand beach. not to mention 50 surfers in the lineup all day long. i’m not looking forward to going back there at all. been there, done it, and ready for new uncrowded spots.
and my recent boat trips seemed so long ago. i actually came home tonight, looked at trips, looked at my calendar, and even looked at flights. i need a trip badly and when i board the next boat, i’m going to surf and dive my brains out. i guarantee that will happen in 2014!
don’t know what’s been going on recently but there are people all over the place painting buildings in town. today i passed by the biggest barrel i’ve ever seen. i had to stop and take a photo of this. freaking amazing art!
