got up super early again and drove out to the north shore early. i haven’t been going out there in a while because of the terrible waves and weather. so today was an exciting drive because i knew it was going to be excellent.
i pulled up without even looking at the waves, waxed my board, ran down the beach, and paddled out to 4-6′ with 8′ sets perfect backdoor and off the wall. all i wanted to do was get barreled!
then i see Kairi Noro on the beach. he said “hey kirby-san, how do i paddle out?” i said “ok, come with me, let’s go together.” we walked down to the edge of the beach and as we stood there, some freak 8′ solid sets kept on coming and coming. i knew it was way to big for him but if you wax your board, put on your leash, and walk down to the waters edge, you must go! i told him, “you have to go out now. if you get pounded, the waves will push you back to the beach. hurry and go, i’ll watch for you.” he said “kirby-san, please watch me and help me if i need help.” omg, he was so cute! he jumped in, paddled out, and survived.
the waves were epic! the best backdoor i’ve seen in a while! glassy, sunny, big, and perfect. i was so happy to be back getting barrels. i didn’t realize how much i missed it.
i saw Kairi catch a wave, pull into the barrel, come out and do 2 big turns. he came out and ran up the beach with the biggest smile on his face. he was so happy to survive big north shore!
i met this kid when he was 8 years old, now he’s a teenager and still so dam cute. i love this kid.
snack time! thank you Kaoru-san and Tsuyoshi-san! hope you enjoyed your first trip to hawaii!
and thank you Y-san for the awesome japanese treat!
going to sleep early because i’m going to the north shore even earlier than this morning. have a beautiful night!
