Million Dollar Crying Baby

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photo 1
i had a great time with Saiki-san and Torimoto-san today. we were supposed to surf yesterday but decided to push our surf session to today which was a great decision. the waves were terrible yesterday and perfect today. so happy to surf with these osaka girls! and after surfing in the rain, we went to warm up with some hot pho.
photo 2
then it was desert time at leonard’s bakery. i can’t believe how long the lines are now days. you have to wait 30 minutes just to eat a dollar malasada. but after you take your first bite into the warm deep fried doughnut, it’s all worth the wait.
photo 3
great surfing girls! hope you enjoyed your last day in hawaii. shaka!
photo 4
i’ve been checking out some nice condo’s for a friend. i learned so much these past few years on the real estate industry in hawaii. i’m not a licensed realtor but if i was, i would have made about $100,000 on buys and sells. today i was looking at a million dollar condo that just went on the market a few days ago. just this view is worth more than a million dollars to me. and if it was sunny, it would be worth two million. this one is a keeper.
photo 5
then i came home and played with my grand nephew. he is so cute! when he cries, i cry. haha. he took a nap, so did i. then i woke up at 5pm, checked the waves, perfect glassy conditions, load the boards, head to bowls, surf the perfect evening session all the way until waikiki started lighting up. super stoked day! freezing cold, eat dinner, take shower, and now i’m going to sleep pretty satisfied. then tomorrow morning getting up early and surfing again. good night!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide