Secret or Non-secret

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photo 4
i had a special guest here today yesterday and wanted to take her to the best spot. we checked bowls and it was super crowded. the waves really good, but just too many people. so instead, we went around a couple of corners and found a perfect head high wave just for the 2 of us.
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Satoko is a master diver instructor and world traveler. on one of the first dives with her in indonesia, she pulled off my mask at 100′ under water. and on other dives when i run out of air, i try to use her octopus and she swims away laughing. that’s how we became good friends i guess. haha. if she’s not in hawaii, she’s somewhere in this world experiencing things people can only dream of. a really amazing diver/traveler and friend.
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then we ate a poke bowl combo and coke for $7. a perfect lunch. then surfing with Team Ina in the afternoon riding perfect waves. we are so lucky to be able to enjoy this perfect first summer south swell. there will be lots more coming and i’m getting excited!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide