another shark alert! yesterday there was a 15′ tiger shark at lanikai beach. yeah, the same lanikai beach that tops the most beautiful beach in the world. not good publicity at all. but hey, remember that sharks can swim so if there is a tiger shark on oahu, it will hang out at every beach. just don’t look down. haha.
imagine coming to hawaii for the first time from sendai. for all of you who don’t know, sendai is very very cold. the water gets so cold that you need a 5mm dry suit with boots, gloves, and head cap. i surfed there in the summer and was cold. now here we are in march when hawaii is the coldest it ever gets. cold for us locals, but like an onsen for surfers from sendai. Iishi-san enjoying the day.
and if you are from sendai, you are hardcore. yeah, not too many can handle the cold water so if you surf, you must really love it. this is a cool photo of a cool guy! Go-Iishi-san!
sometimes i wear a hat because my face gets so burnt that it feels like it’s going to peel off. it gets in the way sometimes when i’m short boarding so i take it off, surf the wave, and put it back on. no, i’m not trying to act cool, i’m just trying to enjoy surfing without having my face peeled off from the hot sun in hawaii.
99 out of a 100 people i take surfing in hawaii tell me “i want to live here!” Iishi-san is just one of them. haha.
well, still some waves on the north shore. pipe had it’s moments this morning and there are more north/west swells expected. the south shore is still sleeping and trying to awake. a lot of hungry town surfers waiting and when the first overhead sets come, it’s going to get crazy! everybody go-naminori!
