GODSPEED Friends

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i had such a great time with Komiya-san this morning. it’s his first time to hawaii so i figure i’d take him to the best spot today. we surfed surfed and surfed wave after wave after wave. he must have caught over 25 perfect waves in our 2.5 hour session. i was so happy to see him enjoying surfing so much in hawaii. he’s from niigata so surfing with a 5mm dry suit, gloves, boots, and head cap is the norm. today it was warm, sunny, and perfect. good surfing Komiya-san!
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the weather couldn’t have been any better. perfect offshore winds and clean chest high surf with long walls ahead. what an awesome day.
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i use to hate wine until a few years ago. now, i love it! red, white, port, or anything. i’m starting to find out what is good and what is not so good. this is one of my favorite chardonnay wine. it’s called “GODSPEED.” awesome name.
last, i’ve been into another whole world recently. the boating world is fascinating, but at the same time, frustrating. i’ve been taken in by really nice people, and i’ve been treated like dirt by others. i’ve learned that people can be such assholes if they want to. i’ve learned that the color of my skin matters in some situations in hawaii. a couple of companies and a couple of people in the industry have been treating me so badly recently. when i was young, i’d pull the guy on the side and beat him up for talking to me like that. but if i do that now, i will get arrested, jailed and sued. i’m a lot smarter now so i have to suck it in, take a deep breath, and just say “yes sir.” but inside, i’m thinking “f#@k off you asshole.”
going back to when i was young. if you had a problem, you would fight like 2 men. just beat each other up for a few minutes, shake hands, and walk away. i still wish it was like that today because there are couple of people i’ve met in the last few weeks that i would love to say “hey, let’s fight like 2 grown men. right here right now. and if you don’t want to, you should shut your mouth and stop acting like an idoit.” anyway, i better go before i punch my computer. haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide