like always, i had a great time with this wonderful father and son surfers. Abe-san and Yuta-kun are super super kind people from Ishinomaki. great hearts and great people that were also affected by the tsunami. i’m so glad to have surfed with them 3x ever since. we caught so many good waves today and the weather and waves couldn’t have been any better. perfect day, perfect surfing, and perfect people. We Are One!
thank you Abe-san for the goodies! omg, i can’t wait to eat this over my hot rice tomorrow morning.
today was a picture perfect day all day long. felt like summer. warm water, warm weather, and cool trade winds.
i was sitting for 2 hours along the ocean and watched whale after whale pass me by. it was so peaceful!
i also watched some of my friends paddle out and catch few waves. here is Randall with the super carve cutback.
and Kekoa flying high. the boys looked like they were having so much fun out there.
and to see my brothers new house in cambodia almost completed makes me really happy. i can’t wait to go back!
well, another long day. another service guy trying to overcharge me, another long meeting with a lawyer, another meeting with my accountant, and just more and more things making my life complicated. i really need a vacation! good night.