Pipe Masters Frenzy…

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it was good to see all the photographers out yesterday shooting the contest. 10 years ago, it was like this everyday. now? a lot different. once this contest finishes, everybody will be gone!!! hey… is that uchida-san from surfing life on the left side? looks like him yeah?

if you ask me, surfing is booming. somebody asked me the other day why pro surfers aren’t treated like pro golf or baseball players. i can tell you why but won’t for now. all i can say is that big corporate companies are making a killing of surf athletes.

they ran the pipeline masters at 3-4′ backdoor. 20 yards away, off the wall was 2x the size and barreling.

and 50 yards away, rock piles was 3x the size and HUGE!
the forecast isn’t looking too good for the waiting period. i think mother nature timed it wrong and provided that beautiful perfect waves a month ago and now slowed it down. pipeline will always get good again and when that day comes, i’ll surf, shoot, and video the whole thing. then when that’s finished, i’m going diving. busy yeah? haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide