good evening. today was a relax day for me. the weather was bad and i knew it was going to be over crowded everywhere because no pipe masters contest. yesterday was the golden day. big, sunny, perfect, and NOBODY!!! lucky? no. good timing? yes….
i’m not the type of surfer who paddles out and tries to catch every single wave. i use to be like that when i was younger. now, i have all day to wait for the good one. i don’t rush, and i don’t go on shitty waves. sometimes it comes, sometimes it doesn’t. yesterday, it came. a perfect a-frame peak in sunset bowl was coming and this guy was on it trying to connect it from the outside. i look back, umm… should i drop in? he looked a little too deep so i paddle and never looked back. i drop in, bottom turn, set up, pull in, and get barreled. it was that easy. the whole time, i was watching kinsan as he was watching me. kinsan never misses a shot and this is just one of the 20 shot sequence. if you try to compare a barrel at sunset to backdoor, forget it. you can’t. backdoor is thick and perfect. sunset is thicker and like a monster. 10 x more water going over your head and if it comes down on your head, good night. so far, this was my 5th best barrel so far this winter. more and more will come to the patient… that’s me… haha… thanks kinsan for NEVER missing the shot….
this is the behind the scene photo. it’s early, it’s big, and it’s time to go to work. not too many people in the world are dedicated like kinsan. i was taught in college that the people with determination can’t be stopped. those people are one in a million, and kinsan is one of them….
**CLICK HERE FOR MY 20 SHOT SEQUENCE ON KINSAN BLOG….
