was so happy to finally arrive in shikoku this morning. it was a super long journey but nothing new to me as this was probably my 20th time coming down here in a car. and coming in early april is the best because the beautiful cherry blossoms are everywhere! my favorite tree is right outside where i stay.
i went for a surf today to try a new board, the TSSC Mini Fat Bat Slim! i loved the feeling of the board, but the water was too cold so i exited after 15 minutes. yes, my new dove wetsuit keeps me warm but my hands, feet, head, and ears were freezing cold! by the way, how cool is my new wetsuit? i love it!
i still can’t believe i use to surf in the cold everyday when i first came to japan. i really respect japanese surfers on their passion to surf. for me, i miss my warm water. haha.
i just started reading this very interesting book called “Into the Wild.” it’s a about this young kid that just graduated from college, packed up a backpack, donated all of his savings to a charity, and traveled up and down america. homeless and making friends. living off what ever he can hunt or find. he ended up dying in alaska but the story is very amazing. it makes me think sometimes that people have their own destiny and his was exactly that. i give him a lot of respect for having the balls to do what he wanted to. he died, but must have died a happy man. i’m half way done and feel like going into the wild myself. maybe see you there.
