nobody told me it was going to be this cold! omg, i was freezing this weekend. i had thermo underwear top and bottom, a tshirt, a long sleeve sweater, a down jacket, and long pants with socks. that’s how i slept at night too. it’s full on winter temperature and my lips are chapped, my face is dry, and my hands and feet are still cold to the bone. but hey, i’m having fun! warm hearts everywhere and good surfing. check out the gallery as i sit here at 5:30am on this cold 4 degree monday morning.
i get to ikumi beach at 5:30am yesterday and you can feel the chill in the air. the waves were excellent as the golden sun rose above the ocean.
i love watching the sun rise in the land of the rising sun!
then the line forms as the competitors check in for their heats. over 160 competitors!!!!
then the heat sheets are posted. you look for you name, find out what time you surf, then you start getting nervous. i’ve been through this many of times so i know how it feels.
then the first heats get on the way. the waves were perfect all day long.
i shoot, and i support everybody that surfs this contest.
and yes, see surfers and friends that i surf with before. everybody is happy.
and friends cheering on friends. the support is awesome.
the girls are surfing better than ever.
see the We Are One sticker? yes, a surfer with a big heart and big smile.
the media is here too. a full 300 photo gallery and video coming up soon on Go-Naminori.com.
surf with a smile. oh yeah!
and watching guys surfing better and better. i was so stoked to see these guys surfing so good!
the 2014 Dove Wetsuit lineup. no wetsuit, no surf. so you better get one.
TSSC boss Yassan always welcoming everybody to shikoku.
i’ve come to this contest for the past 20 years and this year had to be the best waves by far. perfect all day long.
and yes, the sakura making me so happy.
and eagles flying high. so much nature here in shikoku.
a view from the judges tent. perfection!
Matchi and Shun. strong surfer/shaper relationship.
and the best trophies in the world. i wish i could have one too.
then the results ceremony.
the victory stage. congratulations to all the competitors and to all the winners.
then i jump in my car that i parked on purpose under the cherry tree, take a photo, and head to the party.
full gallery coming up soon. going to pack, take the long drive to nagoya airport, jump on an airplane, get to hawaii, and go straight to the beach. i can’t wait to take off the only pair of thermo underwear i’ve been wearing everyday and every night since i arrived here. haha.