oops, i forgot to post this back on april, 9, 2014. sorry.
we all got back to hawaii yesterday and went surfing. it was cloudy, windy, and usually cold. but for me, it was warm, clean, and felt so good. we had a little spot to ourselves and got to surf in peace. i was so happy to be back home. and i’m sure everybody that comes to hawaii must feel the same way too. good knee paddling Inaida-san.
it’s april and the water is getting warmer, and so is the air. even on the cloudy days, it feels good. maybe because i just got back from freezing japan? probably so.
Yuki-san’s first wave in a while. always good balance and good smile!
Inaida-san has good boards, good wetsuits, good shorts, and good life. just like me. haha.
Nomura-san is one the most fittest japanese man i’ve ever met. super strong, super talented, and super big chest!
and good balance too. the rare goofy footer in the group.
well, my hawaiian lifestyle continues. surf, eat, sleep, work, new friends and old friends. the more i stay here, the more i love here. i wish i didn’t have to leave but in order to balance my life, i have too. and since life is so short, i’m planning to jump on an airplane in a couple of weeks and going to a place i’ve always dreamed of. this year i promised myself to enjoy life more and jump at any opportunity. that’s exactly what i’m doing! good night!
