good evening. i knew the waves were going to be small all around the island today so i decided to do something different. i went to a little secret spot and took some pretty cool photos. i had the beach all to myself. i was out there while most of the island was still sleeping. when i was finished, i surfed bowls and it was super fun! another active day so my eyes are closing already. but not so fast… i still have to download the photos….
after surfing and catching so many waves, you get hungry. and when your hungry, it’s time to eat the best bbq plate lunch in town. bbq pork ribs and prime rib!!!
like i said, as most of the island was sleeping, i was swimming in hawaii’s free national park, the ocean. if i didn’t have my camera today, i would have kicked myself in the ass. this little secret beach break? you will never find….
to go to another country and do good in a contest is one thing. to go to another country and win a contest with perfect waves score of a 10 in the final is another. chiaki okuyama was the underdog and took out all the best women’s bodyboarders in the world. bodyboarders in hawaii have been coming up to me and telling me the news. no, it’s not just japan news, it’s world news! i want to congratulate chiaki for doing such a great job and representing japan. your hard work and determination finally paid off!!! keep on dreaming because your on top of the world now!!! great thing will follow!!!
**CLICK HERE FOR CHIAKI OKUYAMA’S GO-NAMINORI OFFICIAL BLOG….
