The KP Dark Horse….

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who the heck got second at the 2010 pipe masters???? for the past 2 years, i pretty much surfed backdoor on every good day, average day, and even shitty day. i go out super early in the morning and don’t see any pro’s out. there is usually an aussie or two out sitting in the lineup. i would remember this one aussie because he would be there every morning surfing and sometimes getting a really good barrel. then 2 weeks ago when i was watching the waves from the billabong house, that same aussie took off and got a good barrel. seth said “that’s kieren perrow.” who? who the heck is kieren perrow???? heard of him before but wasn’t too sure. so when i was watching the pipeline masters, i would see him getting the best waves of the heat. he was my favorite underdog to win the event because i knew he had much more experience than the others. backdoor isn’t as easy as it looks. positioning is everything and even kelly slater will say that. kieren perrow beat, luke munro, damien hobgood, dusty payne, and dane reynolds on the way to the final. in my eyes, he puts more time at backdoor than all these guys combined. finally, it payed off. wave knowledge got him through in all his heats. he knew where to sit, and he knew what waves to go on. he just got the better waves than his competition. i hope my nephews learn from this and be as serious as kieren perrow is at every spot they surf around the world. dedication pays off in a big way and next time i see kieren out at backdoor, even though i don’t know him, i’m going to paddle up to him and shake his hand….

THE NEW ASP WORLD TOUR TOP 10 (Following Billabong Pipe Masters)

1. Kelly Slater (USA) 69000 Points
2. Jordy Smith (ZAF) 52250 points
3. Mick Fanning (AUS) 44750 points
4. Taj Burrow (AUS) 42000 points
4. Dane Reynolds (USA) 42000 points
6. Bede Durbidge (AUS) 39000 points
7. Adrian Buchan (AUS) 37250 points
7. Owen Wright (AUS) 37250 points
9. Jeremy Flores (FRA) 35750 points
10. Adriano de Souza (BRA) 32000 points

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide