good morning. how’s the rain? crazy!!! yesterday was nuts and i’m hoping today will clear up. the water is dirty brown so be careful of infections, and sharks. stay away from laniakea and bowls. today, i’m not going surfing, i’m not going diving, i’m going shooting!! see you in the water…
i picked up this surfer magazine from 1991 and in it had an interview on tony moniz. i remember reading it back then, and it was cool to read it again…
it’s called Crossroads. about all the paths of life that was presented in front of him. trouble, surfing, boxing, and dirt bike riding. he ended up taking the surfers path and that’s probably what made him the complete man he is today…
i remember watching this pipe masters from the beach. it was pretty intense….
i wish you can all read the article because it was a really good one. maybe i’ll have it translated into japanese someday….
