Backdoor and Pipeline Going OFF!

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Screen shot 2014-05-06 at 7.54.00 AM
i came home yesterday, checked the web cams, and saw this!!! omg, pipeline and backdoor super good this mid-morning. i thought i was dreaming!!! look at guys getting barreled left and right. isn’t it may already? and you know what? this whole week is going to be like this!
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i was so happy to see my mexican friend Palma in panama. i met him last year diving in mexico and we had a great time. this time was great too. just constantly laughing at this super funny mexican, probably the funniest guy i’ve ever met. i know and i hope i’ll see Palma again.
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i meet the coolest people on trips. Demetrius is from maui and was in our group. 1 week ago, he was a stranger. now, he’s a friend. an awesome diver, very smart, very technical with his equipment, funny, and overall a cool guy. Demetrius reminded me of my friend Mike Woo. they even looked alike. so of course, we got along very well and i’m sure i’ll be in touch with him for future dives. and hanging out with him really made me miss Mike a lot.
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right around the corner of our resort has a super good river mouth right. i was kind of bummed i couldn’t go surfing in panama this time, but i will for sure next.
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we had ahi “maguro” steaks every night. it was really good in the beginning but after 5 nights straight, i was ready for a something else. i never thought i would be tired of eating fresh tuna. so healthy and so tender all week long. so last night, i cooked up a huge juicy rib eye steak and ate it all. now i’m craving for tuna steak again. haha.
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took some ponzu to panama.
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on the last day, i seen a perfect size fish to sashimi on my last dive so i thought to myself “sashimi for the ride home?” bam! then Keaka came back with a lot of reef fish. i cut up some filets and put it on ice.
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this type of fish tastes much better when you keep it in the refrigerator for a few days. the meat firms up a bit making the texture perfect. for us, it was our last day so we ate it right out of the ocean. not the best, but still pretty good.
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the last day was crazy! lightning hitting the ocean around us. i will never forget the flashes i seen underwater. kind of scary, but kind of exciting. it was raining so hard that the rain was stinging your face.
somebody asked me yesterday about the diving in panama. i told him “the fish was there, but the water was dirty. you can see the big tunas jumping out of the water right in front of you, but as soon as you look underwater, you can’t see a thing. it was actually funny! but overall, the whole experience was awesome.”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide