merry christmas again japan! our christmas is tomorrow and i can’t wait!!! drive safe, drink safe, and surf safe. ho ho ho…..
atsushi-san and i pull up to ehukai and pipeline. it looked like this. super fun and not too many people out. we grab our boards and lock the car. then a guy that parked next to me said “rocky point is going off!!!” i throw my board back in the car, throw atsushi-san’s too, and we speed over to rocky point. i told atsushi-san that since it’s your first time surfing in hawaii, i want to take you to the best point on the island. and the best spot today was rocky point!!!
i paddle out and ask this japanese grom how the waves are. he told me “crowded.” i laughed to myself. rocky point was empty today. kids now days don’t know what crowded is. back in the days, you would be lucky to even catch one wave in 2 hours out there. it was crazy. now days, it’s as mellow as it ever gets. no heavy locals, no fights, and no problem. it’s still wild, but that’s rocky point….
every time i take somebody surfing rocky point, they ask me “is it shallow?” look for yourself…. if you fall here, call the ambulance….
want to thank atsushi-san and mie-san for the wondreful surfing/eating/driving day…. welcome to hawaii and enjoy the rest of your stay!!!
