OMG, yesterday morning was so ugly. i really wanted to catch a some waves before work but it was so dark, ugly, onshore, and junky that i decided to get things done instead. now i’m a free man!
then ate some healthy hiyashishuka or cold ramen for lunch. after eating too much airplane and airport food recently, all i want is healthy. and after 3 days back in hawaii, i can finally feel my body becoming normal again. so happy and so healthy!
if i don’t leave hawaii, i won’t know how good it is. so after leaving hawaii for such a long time, i can totally understand how everybody feels when they come back. Inaida-san and Yuki-san come here every month and now i know why. even thought it was cloudy today, it was still paradise!
wanted to wish Yuki-san a happy birthday and a great year of surfing ahead. new board, new life.
and Inaida-san surfing so good recently. strong body and strong soul.
and yes, nobody is happier than me to be back home. the more i travel, the more i want to stay here in hawaii. every breath, every wave, and every aloha is what keeps me so happy.
i drove by Diamond Head yesterday evening and before i even checked the waves, i knew it was going off! how? when you can’t find any parking at Diamond Head, that means the waves are going off! it was packed with happy summer surfers.
solid over head and super long rides. it was another great surfing day here in hawaii.
Go-Naminori!
Keep on Surfing!
