it took 3 days but finally my body and soul is back on hawaiian time. i was super tired, felt heavy, and functioned only about 75% ever since my long trip. but i woke up this morning at 5am feeling great. drank my kombucha, did my daily 200 push ups and yoga stretches/headstands, ate my power mentaiko breakfast, surfed 2 rounds, and didn’t need a nap. i feel so energetic and am glad to be back to my 100% active life. tomorrow morning same thing!
2 days ago was very cloudy but the cool thing about surfing is that clouds don’t matter. it’s still warm and fun. here is Inaida-san watching a longboarder riding a pretty good wave for a pretty cloudy day.
and here it is! the newly brightened rainbow tower! i can’t tell the difference.
and there it is! the 8 cranes used to make 8 more condos in an already crowded place. hello to more traffic!
i seen a japanese guy sitting on his red board waiting for a wave. i thought it would be a cool photo. and yes, it’s a cool photo.
and i still can’t believe how big and fresh the lobsters were yesterday. i’m going to save up some money, buy one, and ask Masako-san if she can make sashimi for me. haha.
the south swell continues, so does the weird winds, and so does the heavy fog. the tradewinds are coming back on sunday and i can’t wait to welcome back the clean air and off shore winds.
