when i passed by Diamond Head this morning, i couldn’t believe how perfect it was! super good swell direction, perfect winds, and overhead rides lasting over 2 minutes. there were about 40 surfers out but more than enough waves to go around.
there was a kayak out in the deep blue ocean so somebody must have called 911. 3 fire trucks, police, and a lot of spectators were looking out at the kayak. i thought to myself, “oh, it must just be another crazy blue water diver with his kayak.” haha. his kayak was right on the ledge where the ono’s come in. from land, it looks crazy to see somebody way out there, but the diver probably didn’t even know anybody was looking for him. i was just happy to see the fire fighters doing their job of making sure everybody is safe. this is the part where hawaii is number one in the world.
Lighthouse has been the best spot by far on the whole island. i seen some solid 3′ sets breaking perfectly.
i took Sakamoto-san to bowls and we scored some awesome waves. i was so stoked to see him surfing much better than the time he came 2 years ago. surfing better and smiling more. this kid loves to surf.
then i went to pick up his father and we ate lunch. Mr. Sakamoto is a young 70 years old and super energetic. he’s worked his whole life and now is enjoying his retirement to come. a very kind man with a big heart. i really like this family a lot as i can feel the love. it’s just so amazing.
