I Got a Dream!!!

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good evening. yet another beautiful day here in hawaii. paddled out to bowls this morning around 8am and nobody was out. i swear not even one local guy was out there. i was kind of freaking out because the waves were going off. chest high on the sets and perfect rights and lefts. then jeannie chesser paddles out and it was just her and i for a while before the boys started making their way out. where the heck is everybody? or is it just that i have lucky timing? well, just have to see tomorrow morning because i’m surfing early again…

when ever i go on a long trip, i take the bands off my speargun and stick them in the refrig. that way, it lasts longer and keeps it from cracking. once i forgot and when i came back to hawaii, i had to change all my bands on all my guns. it took time and money so i always remember. gosh, feel like diving now….

thanks takeshi-san for sending me this photo of isonoura. i like it there for many reasons. for the nice people, for the best yamari shirasu in japan, for the biggest creamy oysters, and for the tourists. this beach is packed in the summer and i just can sit there for hours just watching people. it’s like waikiki on acid…..

and in just a few more days, i’ll be eating things like this. oh my gosh…. can’t wait….

and last…. i got a dream!!! a dream as a kid. a dream as an adult. and a dream i think about every day. well today, i took a big step in achieving that dream. it’s going to take a while but i’m moving forward to something i wanted my whole life. i’ll give you a hint. one day in the future, this is going to be my evening view…..

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide