omg, i’m so sunburnt and tired so i’m going to make this fast.
woke up early and checked diamond head. still small but i could tell that the new swell was coming from the south/west direction. that’s a good indicator for a great swell to come!
went surfing with Sakamoto-san and was stoked to see him catch some of the biggest waves of his life.
Sakamoto-san is surfing so much better than the other day. was so happy to have lunch with his father after too. super cool family.
and super stoked to see Akoi-chan’s mother always enjoying herself in the water.
all day long, the waves were coming up. i surfed 3 rounds and haven’t surfed this much in a while. it’s only 8:30pm, i’m finished with my bbq, and i’m ready to sleep. looking forward to tomorrow. should be epic in the morning! see you out there. good night.
