good evening. i left my house at 5:30 am so excited to surf backdoor…. i got there and seen some nice waves but it looked pretty dangerous. the reef is sticking up right as you come out of the barrel. and the backwash is nuts! so instead of risking getting hurt, i went to rocky point instead. next week we have 3 big swells lined up so i’d rater take my chances then. check out the action from today…
from rocky point to log cabins, kenji sahara was the only japanese i seen all morning. with the economy in japan so bad, not too many surfers are coming to hawaii anymore. i remember when there would be hundred or so japanese at this time of year. come on everybody! come to hawaii and get barreled! now is your chance!!!
i pulled up to rocky point when it was still dark. i paddled out, caught 4 perfect waves like this, and came in. it took me 20 minutes. it was almost too easy. what a great way to start off my day…
then i went back to backdoor to check. it was fun, but still risky. nobody was out….
then i went to check velzyland. it was super crowded! no thank you. i can surf a wave like that in town with nobody out…
i ended up watching the haleiwa international open cheering on the japanese mens division. great surfing in perfect 2-4′ surf. many photos and video coming soon….
