last night had a bbq. of course, a fat ribeye steak garnished with garlic, rosemary, and olive oil soaking and getting ready for the grill. this is a family tradition.
add some sausage and vegetables steaming in the foil, and you have a very healthy hawaiian BBQ meal.
i always like my meat cooked medium rare, just like this. oh so good!
i surfed bowls early this morning. it was crowded!!!! super localized lineup with not enough waves. stoked to be part of the first summer swell! then this afternoon i took the girls surfing and because bowls was junky, we looked elsewhere.
i’ve been freediving the south shore for over 25 years so i know a lot of reefs. there is this one reef i always dive where i knew would be good when the waves come up. the shape of it and the angle is perfect to catch the straight south swells. and with the upcoming tide, i thought we’d go check it out. and as i pulled up, i couldn’t believe how good it was. just perfect long rights with nobody out! this spot doesn’t even have a name and i know it’s secret because i passed by here a thousand times and seen nobody surfing it. we scored! the girls had a good time and so did i! i think i will name this spot “Tigers.” why? because this is where all the big tiger sharks live. or course, i didn’t tell the girls that.
then we passed by bowls on the way in. there were 30 guys out and i was glad to have been able to surf a new secret spot we found. i’m going back there for sure! and if you want to, you better get a boat because that’s the only way out there.
my little grand nephew Noah is the cutest kid in the world. i’m just waiting for the day he says “uncle, please take me surfing!” this kids going to be good!!!
anyway, more surf tomorrow. going sleep and another early dawn patrol session. good night.
