ok, how hot was it today? omg, i am totally sunburnt! went surfing early this morning, was in the water by 6am and it was already crowded. the waves were shoulder high and perfect! came in, did some things that had to be done, then went back out for a surf again in the afternoon. wow! the new swell is here! solid head high sets at bowls and not too crowded. scored 2 excellent sessions and i’m finally getting my balance back. not surfing for 2 weeks last month and riding longboards kind of threw my surfing off. a couple more sessions and i should get it all back. i feel like a newborn surfer!
the first day of the big swell i didn’t want to hassle with everybody so i went to check out a spot that breaks only about 2x a year. this day was the first time so probably only one more day this year. it has to have the right direction swell, right tide, right wind, and right everything. on a normal day, this spot doesn’t even exist. nobody knows about it, and nobody surfs it. how do i know about it? i dove out there many of times and wondered why such a shallow reef in the middle of the ocean doesn’t break. come to find out, the swell has to be big! so i paddle out, sit right on top of the reef, wait, wait, wait, and when it comes, i have the waves all to myself. this is the part of surfing i love!
it looks like sunset beach or something! look how big and perfect the back wave is. i rode a 5’10’ Matchi Shape that was working great! thank you to Inaida-san and Yuki-san for the photos! see you again very soon.
i had a few drinks, came back, seen the full moon, grabbed the camera with the heavy 20lbs. 400mm lens, had to hold it still, took a couple of photos, and this is one of them. freaking awesome nature!!! look at the craters in the moon! i wonder if you can surf there? haha.
