good evening. i pulled up to pipe/backdoor at pitch dark this morning. i grabbed my 6’6 and paddled out. the waves were 4-5 and dangerous. shallow and a lot of backwash. i caught one pipe wave, and one backdoor wave and that was enough. a great way to start out my 2011!! then came back to town and surfed bowls for 4 + hours. i’m surfed out!!!
i stopped by haleiwa on the way back to town. the waves were 2-4′ and perfect!!!
today was a perfect day to SUP! the lineups were uncrowded in the morning. i was driving back to town before the sun rose. it was pretty weird….
i have so much more to talk about but i’m too tired! the buoy jumped up to 8 feet 21 seconds so BIG surf tomorrow. better go to sleep….
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