good waves and weather again today! it as as blue as it gets here in hawaii. i was down at the beach from 7am to 1pm and i got even darker than i already was. it was hot, but so beautiful! tomorrow all day at the beach again. for tourists, they want sun. for me, i want clouds. my skin feels like it’s going to peel off! and if you try to look for me in the dark, forget it! haha.
wanted to say thank you to Sakamoto-san for the awesome surf session last week!
heard the big news about the first big mentawai swell. in hawaiian scale, i would call this 5′ and barreling! in california scale, this would be 15′ and awesome dude!
how beautiful are the waves in the mentawai? been there so many times and surfed waves even better than this. yeah, hard to believe, but it gets even bigger and hollower!
this recent photo really bummed me out. this is a spot called “4 Bob’s.” the most beautiful spot located between 2 white sandy beach islands. i surfed here many of times and loved the scenery as there was nothing around. but now, somebody built a floating deck right in the middle of the ocean. tourists must love it, but i personally don’t. for me, this is the beginning of the end in the mentawai’s. sad.
