good morning. 5am and like always, i’m totally jet lagged. yesterday was a pretty long day. surf, airports, airplanes, long lines, heavy baggage, and the worst of it all, tokyo traffic. tokura-san picked me up from the airport and there was traffic all the way home. i think it took about 4 hours… the traffic is one thing i don’t miss here…. but we had an awesome dinner and a couple cold beers. i woke up at 4am and i was really wide awake. felt like doing something but nothing to do…. so here i am freezing my ass off because don’t have a jacket or sweatshirt. i thought i had one here but guess not…. anyway, going to go to 7/11 and but some breakfast. gosh, i hope there is some hot oden….. have a nice day and be safe…..
when i was at the airport yesterday in hawaii, i went to the bookstore. i opened up the new water mag and seen my photo. about a month ago, jim russi told me that water was going to run a photo he shot of me. i was super stoked. this is a pretty cool shot because jim took it from behind the wave and you can totally tell it’s me. and he was cool enough to write my name too. thanks jim russi and water magazine… you da best…
and last, it’s good to have friends in hawaii. especially friends like mine. i checked in for my 9 hour flight and i pulled up to the red carpet. i usually do because i hate standing in line. then there she was. my old time friend greeting me with my free business class upgrade ticket. i was really stoked and want to say thanks but can’t say her name. i don’t know if she will get into trouble or not. but anyway, thanks friend. you da bestest…
