Undefeated Surfers

250

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
had fun with Matsushima-san and Miyuki-san the day before yesterday. honeymooner surfers in hawaii. that’s so cool!
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Matsushima-san on a super good wave!
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Miyuki-san riding towards the rainbow!
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
then i went that afternoon to pick up Yumi-chan. hey Yumi-chan, i’m really sorry for making you cry. don’t be scared. for a girl that couldn’t swim 2 years ago, you are doing great. the waves you dove under were actually bigger than you thought. i just didn’t want to say it because i know you would have panicked more.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
and the reason i kept you out in the big waves is to redeem yourself. never go in defeated! get back up, try again, and ride into the wild! good girl!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide