i got my secret surf reporter driving all around the island looking for the best spot. i surf super fun bowls in the morning and just get out of the water when the phone rings. “kirby, sandy beach is GOING OFF!!! you should GO!!!” i go….
i take the turn by blow hole and seen lines and lines of perfect surf. i shoot, and i surf. that’s my job…. there must have been 40 guys out in the evening but most are my friends so i had fun. i grew up surfing at sandy’s so it was great to see all the old school boys still ripping it up.
through out the day, i was hearing all kinds of reports on the wave size. some say 3′, some say 6′. i say the biggest sets were solid 5′. and if you haven’t surfed sandy’s on a big north swell before, you’ll be amazed by the power. it’s a totally different point break. the best spot on the island of oahu yesterday? yes and i was there!!!!
even the blow hole was going off! can you believe somebody fell in the hole a few years ago? instant death. yes, he died…
as i was driving home, i seen the sun starting to go down. i knew it was going to be a great one so i pulled over at moanalua bay and took a few shots. i could make 5 postcards from the 20 photos i took. this one was a throwaway…. while the sun was setting, i was thinking to myself “lucky i live in hawaii.” i [:?????????:] this place[:?????§???:]
