OMG, the waves were perfect again today! surfed this morning with Fujiki-san out at bowls and it was going off! overhead and perfect rights and lefts. once again, Fujiki-san caught so many good waves. then i surfed with Team Ina this afternoon. omg, the waves were super big but we all survived. i’m so happy to see them put aside their fear and challenge themselves to perfect rides. it was amazing! a 4 hour day in the ocean and i couldn’t be a happier man.
Fujiki-san to me is a hard core surfer. every time before i pick him up at 8:30am, he’s already had a session in. yeah, he surfs 5:30am, comes in at 8am, we go surf again from 8:30am, then come out of the water at 11:30am. to me, that’s hardcore! we love naminori!
in Japan, they just came out with the new Kikaida Reboot movie! OMG, i have to go to japan to see it! Fujiki-san brought me back a Kikaida iphone case. i was so stoked!!!!
my phone is in the case and i feel like getting out my guitar and changing from Jiro to Kikaida! then i can go and kill all the bad people in this world. thank you Fujiki-san!
ok, yet another death at spitting caves over in hawaii kai. probably the most deadly place in hawaii as so many young people have lost their lives jumping into the ocean. a 22 year old girl died yesterday. in my opinion, it’s pretty dangerous. i’ve done it many times before but felt like i could have died more than once. there is just too many variables that could go wrong. slip off the top and hit your head, not jump far off enough and land on the rocks 100′ below, time it wrong and jump when the wave is sucking out and hit the reef, or die trying to climb out of the rough seas.
with these winds recently, i could imagine how rough it was yesterday. jumping off is the easy part, getting back up is the hard part. the girl survived the jump, but didn’t survive getting back out of the ocean. and the sad thing is 2 of her friends was trying to help her and had to watch her die. so sad.
