You MISSED it….

203

yesterday i was contemplating on driving out to sandy beach. i was at home around 3:30 pm ready for a much needed nap. how can you take a nap when the waves are going off? that’s what i was thinking. so i put my pillow away, jumped in my car, and headed over to sandy beach…

me, i’m always on the run. this time, running for the ocean….

instead of paddling out to the full point with 40 other surfers, i headed across the channel to generals where only one guy was out. i caught 4 waves and came in because i seen the sun going down. i headed back over the mountain where i wanted to get the perfect sunset shot. i made it just in time and got the perfect postcard photo. for that, you’ll have to wait….
tammy, thanks for taking the shots of me at sandy’s. but sorry you missed the sunset shot. and yes, you really missed it. haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide