super stoked to take this photo today for Jeannie Chesser. standing next to surf legend Doc Paskowitz who happens to be 93 YEARS OLD!!! this legend surfer was hanging down at bowls today and i couldn’t believe how good he looked! 93 years young! an american surfer who graduated from Stanford University to become a doctor than gave up his professional career to become a surfer. what a cool story and what a cool guy driving his car down to the beach today!
i had to wash the truck this morning. i was in free surfing bowls and thought to myself “go home now and wash the truck for an hour, or pay $16 and drive it through the 20 minute car wash? stay out and surf for 40 minutes longer?” after having such a great time, i decide to pay the $16 and enjoy 40 minutes more of surfing. it turned out to be the right choice because paying $16 for 5 sets at bowls is well worth it. and i’d do it again.
then of course it had to rain twice today. haha. i don’t even care already. mother nature makes up her own mind and i just go with the flow.
surfed 3 rounds today and had so much fun. the waves got bigger this afternoon as a freak 5′ set came in and caught us off guard. i was watching the waves at dark and it’s definitely getting bigger. tomorrow is big wednesday and i’m looking forward to spending another full day in the ocean. sweet dreams!
