ONE: Minami Soma Surfer in Hawaii

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yesterday was a very emotional day for me. Banba-san just got out of the taxi in waikiki straight off a flight from japan. he introduced himself and i was pleased to meet him. Banba-san is from Fukushima prefecture in Minami Soma. it was 3 years ago when our We Are One team first went to Minami Soma. there is a cool village fronting the surf spot called “Kita Izumi” that got completely wiped out from the tsunami. and to make things worst, it’s right in the circle of the radiation evacuation zone. only a few miles away from the fukushima power plant that leaked and is still leaking radiation into the air and water. when our team went there, Banba-san was looking for us. our paths didn’t cross then, but did now. when i met him today, he told me where he was from, what happened, and how thankful he was for our team.” we paused, i looked into his eyes and could see the emotions, we are both grown men but there is nothing wrong with crying. i’m not ashamed at all. back during out missions, it took a lot for me to hold in my tears, now, i can’t anymore. i don’t know if it’s my way of healing or not, but it feels good to connect with the very people we went to help. we hugged, and even though i could have stayed there all day talking story to Banba-san, i knew we had to jump into the ocean to surf. why? because we are surfers. we paddle out to perfect bowls, catch some super good waves, and even though i spent only 2 hours with him today, i felt the connection. i have 2 more days surfing with Banba-san and i’m looking forward to listening, talking, laughing, wave riding, and healing. as for me, it was very hard emotionally in the beginning but i knew there would be a rainbow in the end. it’s just starting now as i see the bright colors starting to glow. i am very happy and very proud of my team for all the effort and support for the people in tohoku. today was a great day for me. We Are One Forever!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide