i wake up early, head out to the ocean on Mayuki with Brent and Kekoa for a fast dive. as i pass bowls, it looked 2-3′, crowded, and inconsistent. we go dive, we come back 2 hours later and the waves started to pump! it looked like a different day! i drop off Brent and Kekoa at the harbor, ride Mayuki back out, throw the anchor, and surf some epic 4′ bowls!!! i even got a nice barrel on a left. felt so good! pull anchor, come back in by 10:30am and i felt totally satisfied for a full amazing day. after that, i just went shopping and relaxed.
then i see a school of Halalu or “baby aji” at the harbor. if this wasn’t a private club, there would be hundreds of hawaiian fishermen catching fish after fish. i was all alone sitting down enjoying nature. i had a glass of water, some popcorn, and watched big trevally’s attack the school of halalu. if the water wasn’t so dirty, i would have jumped in with my go pro and you would have seen some amazing action. i wanted to grab my fishing pole but decided not to interfere with nature. i just sat and enjoyed it.
so cool yeah!
thousands of fish swimming in a circle until the trevally comes up and eats a few.
wanted to thank Banba-san for the awesome japanese farmers gift. great with my rice, egg, and natto.
fins are everything. i’ve been surfing for over 30 years and tried every fin you can imagine. fins can make a board work, or make a board not work. i see all the time people using the wrong fins on their boards. i’ve even seen people sell their boards because they said it didn’t work. with the wrong fin setup, your board won’t work. it’s like putting cheap gas in your car. no matter how good your car is, it won’t run as good if you put good gas in. i use Scarfini HX1 fins on every single board i own. to me, they work the best. just enough stiffness, just enough flex, and just enough weight to make a normal board turn like magic. if you haven’t tried them before, i really feel sorry for you. and i’m not joking.
