i had a wonderful 3 days with Banba-san. right from the start, i felt the connection. just a very kind and pure surfer with a great heart. Banda-san loves to surf and he loves his local surf spot, Kita-Izumi. i went there 4x after the tsunami demolished everything in its path. it was heartbreaking to hear the stories even 3 years later. it’s heartbreaking to think that it will never be the same. and it’s heartbreaking to know that the fukushima nuclear plant that is located just a few miles away is still unstable. i wouldn’t know what i would do if i lost one of my surf spots like that. but Banda-san and the locals are moving forward. banding together stronger than ever. it was great news to me that things are moving forward. Kita-Izumi is a beautiful beach with awesome waves. i hope to go there sometime soon and surf with the boys. to Banda-san and the local surfers, keep looking forward, keep surfing, and keep smiling! i respect all of you and hope to surf with you. we are one!
great to see Banda-san smile after 3 magical surf sessions. shaka for minami-soma!
i’d guess he caught over 80 waves in our 3 sessions? maybe even more! Banda-san is a great surfer that has the upmost respect for other surfers. that’s cool!
then we went to eat a healthy Acai Bowl for lunch.
then i went surfing again in the afternoon. surfed 5 hours yesterday in the raging hot sun! then wiped the sand off my feet and headed to a cool air conditioned building for my 4pm meeting. my lawyer and my accountant have offices in this building and while i’m walking up the escalator, i’m actually stressing out. but once my meetings are over, i’m walking down very relaxed, very relieved, and very happy. they are both the best in hawaii and without them, i’d be homeless.
if you ever tried to cook a hard tough hawaiian tako, good luck. it’s very tricky and can’t be done the japanese way because it’s just too tough. trial and error throughout the past 25 years has taught me how to cook it to perfection. first, you have to catch it. then throw it in the freezer to soften up the muscle tissue.
throw it in a pot. and this is where secrets are better kept secrets.
the tako was free, the ingredients cost pennies, and the result is priceless!
