13 years old.

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photo d3
i was cleaning out a box and found this photo of me when i was 13 years old. i was going to niu valley intermediate school at that time. that year, i got suspended from school twice for fighting. i use to work after school cleaning classrooms for $3/hour. i didn’t have a girlfriend or didn’t even like girls. i custom made my hair style by sleeping every night with hair clips because i wanted to look like gerry lopez. that was my favorite shirt i wore almost everyday. i didn’t have hair pubic hair yet. i use to hate my teachers. i ran away from home. i owned a moped even though it was illegal for anybody under 15. i never got allowance. all this said, i was a cherry boy searching for attention, searching for my soul, and lost as can be. i would like to think that this was the turning point in my life but it actually got worst. way worst.
so decades after, there is no wonder why my old teachers and middle school friends can’t believe i turned out not such a bad person. haha. the only things that didn’t change since then is my love for surfing, best friends, and my custom made haircut.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide