good evening. gosh, it seems like it’s getting colder and colder. this morning was 6 degrees. i was freezing my ass off. i got a new board and a new wetsuit but i didn’t want to go in the water. i didn’t even want to leave matsuo’s house. that’s how cold it was….. i forgot what the sun looks like already….
this was my first photo in a japanese magazine. i use to ride for local motion back in the day and they ran this ad on the inside of the cover of a surfing life magazine. this is backdoor in 1993. do you know how stoked i was when i first seen it? i was so stoked that i blew it up and hung it on my wall in my room. and to this day, it’s still there. still there to remind me of how lucky i am to be still living my dream after all these years….. just wanted to say thanks to everybody that made it happen… i’ll never forget….
**and last, check out this short clip from 2 days ago at shichirigahama, kamakura. we went to check out this new building that just popped up. there is this surf shop called “blue horizon” and a clothing store next door. both places filled with people…. it was pretty cool to see so many people shopping across from the ocean. looked to me like things are happening down there….
and last last, i thought this photo was super cool. check out this flower farm in scotland. i would love to jump in there and mess things up. haha….
***and last last last…. i was shocked to hear the news that aloha airlines is shutting down tomorrow. that’s freaking big sad news… it was go airlines that came in and screwed everything up. that’s the bottom line. i learned in college about companies like go airlines. i thought our laws in america prevent things like this happening. should i borrow 1 billion dollars, form go surfboards, and start selling 99 cents surfboards in hawaii? then after every surfboard company goes out of business, start selling surfboards for $1,000? that’s freaking screwed up. come on government, if you let companies like go get away with what they did with a slap on the wrist, other giants will follow…. anybody want to bet me that they will somehow drive hawaiian airlines out of business too? then our interisland airfares will go up to 3 times and nobody can do anything about it. that’s called a fucken “monopoly”…. excuse my language but i’m pretty dam pissed off about this. i feel sorry for the thousands of people that won’t have a job tomorrow. some of my friends too…
