Tigers and Old Niijima….

266

good evening. had a fun day in town. surfed diamond head with anri-san, kenji, hayato, mari-chan, matchi, and toshimitsu-san. the waves weren’t the best but when your surfing with a bunch of friends, the waves doesn’t matter. tomorrow? i’m not even checking the waves, i’m waking up early and dawn patrolling north shore!! see you out there….

i shot this photo from a hill up in town. this is the freeway going back to hawaii kai and as you can see, there is a lot of traffic. i’m glad i don’t have to drive back out there everyday anymore….

wanted to welcome acco-chan to hawaii! also wanted to thank acco-chan for sending me this photo from a long time ago in niijima island. gosh, when was this? which one is me? gosh, was this 18 years ago????

thanks to the heavy rain, the water on the north shore is as dirty as can be. laniakea was going off today and nobody was out. why? probably because of the bacteria and sharks. yeah, i bet anybody that there were a lot of hungry tiger sharks out there today…. please stay out of the dirty water….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide